Holiday season is upon us once again.   We do our very best to have everything in stock for the holiday orders.  Often we are building games into the wee hours of the morning to meet demand…. and we’ve been known to take orders the very last minute and personally delivery on Christmas Eve.    I wouldn’t recommend waiting that long though!!!

Our most popular machines during this time are the upright Galaga/Ms. Pacman and Cocktail arcade games.   They provide the absolute best bang-for-the-buck, rock solid reliability and classic gaming experience!

Coming Soon:

Williams Corvette Pinball – inquire today

Williams JackBot Pinball – inquire today

Donkey Kong / Jr Multicade – inquire today

Williams Stargate Multi-game arcade – inquire today

In my little town growing up, there was an old brick building just under the rail road track bridge.  It had probably served as a dozen things in the past 100+ years, but I always remembered it being an old service garage.   One day, in likely 1982, it was converted into coin-op arcade.  I couldn’t believe it.   Thinking back, even then, I recall it being in a little sketchy of a location for kids, and not really the safest place to ride your bike… but things were different in the 80’s anyway.    I remember this place well.  It had a little hand-made bike rack out front large enough for maybe 3 bikes.  The concrete stairs up to the glass doors were old and crooked.  There were many rooms connected together and the floor was uneven.  The weight of the 50 plus arcade games probably didn’t help that old building much.     In the back, right in front of the counter with the attendant for coins, was the Tron machine.   It was likely their prized machine and it was obviously very different from all the others in the room.    This arcade was probably in operation for only a year or two before it mysteriously closed up.    That was the last time I had even seen this game, until now.

Now that I have restored many pinball and video machines of the era, can I truly appreciate how different this game really was.   Generally, when a machine is designed to go along with a movie, it suffers greatly due to the overhead of licensing and timing.   Of course, this game didn’t get everything that was desired and thus left out the Discs of Tron 5th game. However, there are many items so significant in this machine that it is worth noting.

First and foremost is the cabinet design.   It’s odd diamond shape cabinet was certainly not loved by operators because you cannot get a hand truck on the back very well.   It also had odd shaped wood access panels that I believe probably broke often.   So I imagine it was carted from the side and man-handled through narrow door frames.  However the shape goes very well with the theme and allows the monitor and enclosure to be very dark and roomy.

The control panel and surrounding plastics were very well designed.   Curved clear acrylic panels with fluorescent graphics were mounted above and below the control panel along with ultra-violet lighting to result in a very futuristic look.   The monitor bezel was designed to have a three dimension look and feel and an MCU graphic was mounted behind it to make you feel like you were actually inside the movie.   All of this extra plastic and tooling had to add to the game cost significantly.

Lastly, the circuit design was also very much ahead of anything of the time.   The power supply board also housed a battery backup circuit so that game scores would be saved.  This was a pretty complicated design back in the day.   It also served as a separate analog power supply for the audio circuit – which had 2 separate channels for simulated stereo sound to reduce audio feedback.

The game board itself was so complicated, that it required 3 separate, double sided PC boards and ribbon cables connecting both ends.  Needless to say, finding a working TRON board set is hard to do.     This game in general can be very expensive to build – easily twice as much than a comparable Ms. Pacman or Galaga machine from the same company released the year before.

Restoration

This machine was a trade in for a pinball machine that we had sold earlier in the month.  I took this trade in because I had been looking for a Tron machine for quite some time.   Of course, I was informed that the machine mostly worked and that it already had new side graphics (so that was a plus).

In actuality, the game boards were a complete loss.  They had burned traces and so much rework that they could not be salvaged.  I was pretty disappointed.  However the side graphics were applied pretty well and the cabinet was in excellent shape.

This machine went on to get the following treatment:

• New acrylic control panel surfaces (top and bottom)
• New control panel and spinner graphics
• New joystick
• Rebuilt coin door and all metal hardware
• New monitor
• Like new Tron PCB set
• New power supply adapter board (made to replace the old board with newer battery backup technology)
• New switching power supply
• All Lighting replaced by color controlled LED.   This allowed us to program the color of the MPU, marquee and acrylic pieces.  When set to slow fade mode makes you feel like you are actually inside the game.   It’s very cool.

We have some new items in this month…

Megatouch Evo (Force and Ion) flat panel touch screen multi-game machines.  These things are a HUGE hit from kids to adults.  Compact design, small footprint but big in entertainment performance.  We will have limited supply of these machines.  Click HERE for more information

Valley Cougar 8 – Professional full standing soft-tip dart machine.  This machine is the top of the line and has all kinds of single and multi-player game modes.  Includes automatic dart removal and sonar system.  Also includes intelligent single player vs computer action for real life practice games.    Click HERE for more information

Centipede / Millipede / Missle Command Multi Game – This is the official ATARI multi-game release of 3 most sought after trackball games from the 80’s.    Click HERE for more information

Golden Tee Live – The commercial version with 2 monitors and HD resolution.  The final version of this timeless classic.    Click HERE for more information

Midway Cruisin’ USA – Gotta love this cheeky and fun sit down driving game.  Fun for all ages and an inexpensive alternative.    Click HERE for more information

 – Happy Holidays – 

We have lots of news to share.  Top stories are TWO great locations for arcade games in Lexington, KY.   We’re so glad to see the arcade movement starting to come back and have witnessed this in many cities – so it’s no fluke!   Arcadium 574 North Limestone Vintage 80’s games, bar and spirits.  See their website at http://arcadiumbar.com/   Monkey Joe’s 1850 Bryant Road Inflatables, parties and all new arcade. http://www.monkeyjoes.com/lexington-ky

This just in:

• Kiss Pinball: full restoration blog.  Check back this week for lots of pictures and a great story
• Bally Xenon : If you liked the full restoration of the Kiss Pinball… then you’ll love this machine.  We’re going over the top on this one and it’s going to be a beauty.   Currently still available for a new home.
• Williams Blackout : a classic 80’s pinball with classic Williams sound and play.  This will be restored to keep this pinball inexpensive but still super reliable.
• NBA Fastbreak : We have this unique beauty ready to go.  Check out the pinball inventory
• NFL Blitz / NBA Showtime arcade : in original cabinet and graphics.  RARE!  We’ve had to turn down people all summer because we could not get this machine back in stock.  We have ONE.  Check the arcade inventory for more information.  Will not last long.

This article is going to cover a very common problem with cathode ray tube (CRT) monitors.  This issue is often discussed but rarely properly fixed or addressed in complete form.  We’re going to cover all aspects of this issue and help you diagnose and hopefully fix your monitor purity issues.  Parts of this article may be a little technical, but continue reading as there are some easy fixes included…

What is purity?

CRT monitors are additive color systems, meaning that all colors are created by adding a percentage of primary colors together.   These primary colors are Red, Green and Blue.

White = ( R:100% +  G:100%  + B:100% )

Black  = ( R:0% +  G:0%  + B:0% )

Red = ( R:100% +  G:0%  + B:0% )

Green = ( R:100% +  G:100%  + B:0% )

Blue = ( R:0% +  G:0%  + B:100% )

If your monitor exhibits any one of the following impairments, you have a problem with purity

In the neck of each CRT is a primary color electron gun.  The electrons are directed up/down and left/right by way of a magnetic coil located at the base of the CRT glass.  When an image can be displayed in perfect geometry and color, the CRT is considered to be calibrated  as pure.

The best example of purity is displaying a full screen of each primary color.  If each color can be displayed perfectly square (4×3 on standard CRT) and without color splotches, then the CRT is calibrated correctly (for that region of the world) and that there are no environmental impairments affecting the direction of the internal electron guns.  Purity is adjusted by moving the location of the windings used to redirect the electron gun beams (yoke).  More on this later.

What is Convergence?

Convergence plays hand in hand with purity in creating an image of expected color and with perfect alignment.  We know that each color is controlled by a separate electron gun.  Each gun is located in the neck of the CRT, but not in the same location.  So slight adjustments need to be made so that each gun illuminates the same exact location on the CRT to create a single pixel element.

Here is are a couple examples of very poor convergence.  You can also see the distinct primary elements.

Ok, so now what?

So, how did we get here anyway?  Why would my monitor look like this?

Simple Fix Convergence

First, let’s start with convergence problems.  Convergence is set and locked in place in the factory.  Arcade games typically get man-handled and relocated every couple years to new locations.  Operators are not usually very gentile with these machines and sometimes the glue which holds the yoke in place comes loose.  Sometimes convergence can easily be fixed by re-centering the yoke with the rubber wedges and gluing it back in place.   If that doesnt work, it is possible the  convergence rings were broken off or knocked out of position.  They too are glued in place and if they havent broken off, can be easily be slid back in position.  The manufacturer usually aligned these and marked them with ink or glue so relocating them back should be very simple.  If they have broken off, you will need to look into having this corrected by a professional or replacing the monitor (which is probably your best course of action).

Simple Fix Purity

All monitors have a purity fixer built in.  It’s called a de-gausser.  Most all  monitors have built in de-gaussing circuits that automatically run every time a monitor is turned on.  However, this only happens when a monitor is COLD.  So, if you are seeing this problem, shut off your game and wait about an hour.  When you turn it back on, you should hear a funny twang sound.  That is the degauss circuit attempting to rid the picture tube of unwanted magnetic interference.

Sometimes, when relocating an arcade game, the monitor will pick up stray magnetization.  Try running the automatic degauss circuit a couple times.  If the splotch has not been corrected, you may be one of what we call “the 1%”

Environmental Fix Purity

Sometimes, you have to adjust for environmental conditions that cannot be fixed.  You may have an I-beam in the wall or ceiling that is locally augmenting the Earth’s natural magnetic field.   Sometimes, it is in the ground below you.  Either way, this too can be overcome.

First, relocate the machine to another part of the room OR turn the machine temporarily 90 degrees.  Re-run the automatic degauss circuit a couple of times and see if this condition goes away.

If it works, then you have 2 choices:

1)  Relocate the machine or turn it 90 degrees.

2)  Compensate with magnets

Magnet Fix Purity

Ok, so we don’t love this solution because it is a trial and error solution, but it works – and nobody ever knows to do this.  This method also requires a little dexterity and risk of electric shock.  So, if you are not familiar with electronics or qualified for working with high voltages, please find someone who is.

First, you need some thin flexible magnet material.  Not too strong, typically fridge magnet strength.  A strip of flexible magnet can be purchaed in Home Depot or a craft section used for making picture frames etc.

The idea here is to use the magnets  on the back side of the monitor to compensate for the area that is not pure.  Experiement by moving the magnet along the back side of the glass tube.  The closer to the center (yoke), the more compensation.  Turn and spin the magnet until the blotch goes away and then glue the magnet in place.

You may see other magnets already glued in place by the factory.  Use that as a guide for size and location.

Again – do this with the monitor OFF and wait 15 minutes between each attempt so that high voltage is discharged.  Do all adjustments to the monitor in the position where the game will reside or you’ll be chasing your tail.  

If you have any questions, please comment on this article

Arcade Games

• Place machines at least 4 inches from wall to allow for power cord and air flow.

• Most machines have built in wheels in the back and can be easily moved around on hard surfaces.

• Machines may be transported safely upright or on it’s back (preferred).

• A standard 6 foot bed pickup truck is ideal for transportation.

• Ms. Pacman/Galaga based machines CAN fit in a large SUV, but just barely.  With all the seats down and no cargo.  Larger machines such as the MultiPAC will not.

First of all, we don’t lease machines, but we get this request ALL THE TIME.  I have some suggestions when thinking about putting in one or more machines in your place of business.

So, should you lease or purchase outright?

The answer really depends on how much emphasis or expectation of income you expect from your machines.  If you haven’t noticed, there are not too many small arcades operating anymore, but that doesn’t mean at all that they aren’t valuable to your business.

Here are couple thoughts about arcade games:

• Place machines on free play to keep customers longer – or entertain the kids while the adults watch the game/socialize.
• Place a couple of classic machines that match your business for nostalgic reasons.  IE: classic pinball in a soda fountain, Harley Davidson pinball in a biker bar.
• Keep machines pay to play at a $0.25 or $0.50 max.  Any more, people get turned off.
• Don’t expect huge incomes from your machines, so don’t pay for top of the line, new  machines.  New machines can cost over $10,000 – which you’ll never recover and the reason why there aren’t many arcades around anymore.  If you can purchase a machine for around $2000, you will recover the capital pretty quickly in both income and increased time spent in your establishment.
• You’re not going to be splitting the profits of any arcade game you lease.  Expect more like 30% net.
• Check with your local tax codes if you need to separately register an arcade game as a vending machine.  If the costs are prohibitive, set them to free-play.  The word will get out quick that you have a free arcade.

Pacman, Ms. Pacman and Galaga are easily the most identifiable arcade games of the 1980’s.   They were both manufactured using the same cabinet style, however not the exact same cabinet.

Originally, in 1980, Pacman was released in it’s iconic cabinet (and yellow color) and took the world by storm.  Ms. Pacman was it’s successor in 1981, originally marketed to appeal to the female gamer (thus the blue, yellow and pink colors).  It really didnt matter as Ms. Pacman quickly overtook Pacman as the most popular game ever because of it’s changing maze and better game play.

Also in 1981, Galaga was actually an experiment in reusing the same game hardware and appeared to be released in cost reduced form – as the cabinets were actually made from pressed cardboard instead of the original multi-ply wood design.  Over the years, Galaga machines have suffered from age. Most of the time, cardboard cabinet has absorbed so much water that it mushrooms and de-laminates to a point of no-return.  As a result, we typically will use Ms. Pacman cabinets and convert them over to Galaga, or go the route of the “reunion style” and put both Galaga and Ms. Pacman graphics on the cabinet.  This emulates the 20th Anniversary Reunion arcade games that were re-released in the early 2000’s, but at a much reduced cost.

All cabinets of this style hold the 19″ vertically oriented monitor.  This means that the 4×3 monitor i s turned 90 degrees so that it sits taller than wider.  This is the orientation for many games of the early 1980’s such as: Galaga, Pacman, Ms. Pacman, Donkey Kong, Dig Dug, Centipede, Millipede etc.   Also, the monitor in these cabinets are laid down almost flat – like a table.

CRT Arcade Monitor

Up until about 2006 (give or take), all authentic arcade games have been designed around CRT arcade monitor technology.  Believe it or not, this technology has not kept up to modern TV or computers.  In the 80’s to late 90’s, over 98% of arcade games were designed for CGA graphics of approx 320×240.  Yes, that’s right!  About the same resolution as your old flip cell phone.  Some games went on to use EGA and VGA graphics (640×480)… which is the same as a 480i standard resolution TV set.  Still, far from even mid 90’s SVGA graphics and today’s high resolution TV and LCD panels.

The question is, why wouldn’t you use a modern display?   The answer may be counter intuitive to those not in the video/graphics industry.  The short answer is: because it will look horrible.

Why CRT Arcade Monitor Better Than HD?

If you’ve ever seen a regular standard definition (SD) TV show on a modern HDTV set, it looks horrible (and that is standing back at a distance).  Imagine what it would be like if you had to get up close to the display like you would with an arcade game.  There are a couple factors in why SD transmissions look horrible on HD sets, but one of the contributing factors is the problem of pixel aliasing.  While this is not exactly the same issue in arcade games, the results are very similar.

Modern day computer (LCD and CRT) monitors are actually not designed to support lower graphic resolutions and cannot support the slower refresh rates and larger pixel sizes.

Low resolution (CGA) graphics pixel sizes are relatively large and in order to translate these pixels to a higher pitch display, the monitor must be able to upconvert.  Additionally, digital monitor pixel sizes are in a fixed size and position on the screen,  where as analog pixel sizes (excited phosphor elements) can be adjusted for size and position to match an arcade game’s output 1:1.   So unless a modern display is an exact integer ratio of the desired output, it will blur the pixels – and unfortunately, arcade games from the 80’s and 90’s used all sorts of screen resolutions.

These are typical modern monitor (SVGA) resolutions:

• 512 x 448 @ 60Hz
• 512 x 512 @ 60Hz
• 640 x 480 @ 60Hz
• 720 x 480 @ 60Hz
• 800 x 600 @ 50Hz
• 1024 x 768 @ 50Hz

These are typical arcade monitor (CGA) resolutions:

• 240 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 256 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 256 x 256 @ 60Hz
• 256 x 264 @ 60Hz
• 304 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 321 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 321 x 256 @ 60Hz
• 336 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 352 x 256 @ 60Hz
• 352 x 264 @ 60Hz
• 352 x 288 @ 50Hz
• 368 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 384 x 288 @ 50Hz
• 392 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 401 x 256 @ 53Hz
• 448 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 512 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 512 x 288 @ 50Hz
• 632 x 264 @ 56Hz
• 640 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 640 x 288 @ 50Hz

So for example, if you had an arcade game that normally outputs 392 x 240, there is no matching ratio for SVGA.

More Details

One would think that higher resolution digital displays would result in an output that is just as crisp as the original.  However,  the problem is that the pixels do NOT line up correctly when converting from high to low resolutions… and therefore monitor needs to decide what do to for pixels that essentially hang off the edges.

In our example, for simplicity, we attempt to line up both high and low resolutions using a grid.  The grid represents the immovable pixels on a digital monitor.

The following example is a very simple “O” shape, single color graphic.  On a CGA (Arcade Monitor), you would see this shape pixel for pixel… and you would expect to see it that way.  On a modern monitor, the “O” shape gets rounded off and fuzzy on the inside and outside edges.  This is because the GRIDS do not overlay perfectly and the monitor has to decide what to do.  For example, if a pixel hangs off 50%, the monitor may reduce the luminance and/or color of that pixel (or possibly just turn it off).  Either way, the image becomes distorted and VERY noticeable.

Here are actual close-up photos of MsPacman on a proper arcade monitor VS computer monitor.  You can see on the computer monitor the blurry dots, wall edges etc.  Now, would you settle for this?

Summary

CRT Arcade monitors are naturally much harder to find in good working order as they are out of production and thus will require technical knowledge to properly rebuild, test and install.  Also, we will never take an old tube and “rejuvenate” it (which is a process of inducing high current thru the tube to burn off deposits in order to brighten up the output).  This process is only necessary when a CRT is beyond it’s expected life cycle and ends up being a temporary fix.  We always use FRESH tubes in all of our monitors

This is why it is important to find experts such as Castle Classic Arcade for a proper and authentic arcade machine for your home.