CRT Arcade Monitor

Up until about 2006 (give or take), all authentic arcade games have been designed around CRT arcade monitor technology.  Believe it or not, this technology has not kept up to modern TV or computers.  In the 80’s to late 90’s, over 98% of arcade games were designed for CGA graphics of approx 320×240.  Yes, that’s right!  About the same resolution as your old flip cell phone.  Some games went on to use EGA and VGA graphics (640×480)… which is the same as a 480i standard resolution TV set.  Still, far from even mid 90’s SVGA graphics and today’s high resolution TV and LCD panels.

The question is, why wouldn’t you use a modern display?   The answer may be counter intuitive to those not in the video/graphics industry.  The short answer is: because it will look horrible.

Why CRT Arcade Monitor Better Than HD?

If you’ve ever seen a regular standard definition (SD) TV show on a modern HDTV set, it looks horrible (and that is standing back at a distance).  Imagine what it would be like if you had to get up close to the display like you would with an arcade game.  There are a couple factors in why SD transmissions look horrible on HD sets, but one of the contributing factors is the problem of pixel aliasing.  While this is not exactly the same issue in arcade games, the results are very similar.

Modern day computer (LCD and CRT) monitors are actually not designed to support lower graphic resolutions and cannot support the slower refresh rates and larger pixel sizes.

Low resolution (CGA) graphics pixel sizes are relatively large and in order to translate these pixels to a higher pitch display, the monitor must be able to upconvert.  Additionally, digital monitor pixel sizes are in a fixed size and position on the screen,  where as analog pixel sizes (excited phosphor elements) can be adjusted for size and position to match an arcade game’s output 1:1.   So unless a modern display is an exact integer ratio of the desired output, it will blur the pixels – and unfortunately, arcade games from the 80’s and 90’s used all sorts of screen resolutions.

These are typical modern monitor (SVGA) resolutions:

• 512 x 448 @ 60Hz
• 512 x 512 @ 60Hz
• 640 x 480 @ 60Hz
• 720 x 480 @ 60Hz
• 800 x 600 @ 50Hz
• 1024 x 768 @ 50Hz

These are typical arcade monitor (CGA) resolutions:

• 240 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 256 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 256 x 256 @ 60Hz
• 256 x 264 @ 60Hz
• 304 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 321 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 321 x 256 @ 60Hz
• 336 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 352 x 256 @ 60Hz
• 352 x 264 @ 60Hz
• 352 x 288 @ 50Hz
• 368 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 384 x 288 @ 50Hz
• 392 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 401 x 256 @ 53Hz
• 448 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 512 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 512 x 288 @ 50Hz
• 632 x 264 @ 56Hz
• 640 x 240 @ 60Hz
• 640 x 288 @ 50Hz

So for example, if you had an arcade game that normally outputs 392 x 240, there is no matching ratio for SVGA.

More Details

One would think that higher resolution digital displays would result in an output that is just as crisp as the original.  However,  the problem is that the pixels do NOT line up correctly when converting from high to low resolutions… and therefore monitor needs to decide what do to for pixels that essentially hang off the edges.

In our example, for simplicity, we attempt to line up both high and low resolutions using a grid.  The grid represents the immovable pixels on a digital monitor.

The following example is a very simple “O” shape, single color graphic.  On a CGA (Arcade Monitor), you would see this shape pixel for pixel… and you would expect to see it that way.  On a modern monitor, the “O” shape gets rounded off and fuzzy on the inside and outside edges.  This is because the GRIDS do not overlay perfectly and the monitor has to decide what to do.  For example, if a pixel hangs off 50%, the monitor may reduce the luminance and/or color of that pixel (or possibly just turn it off).  Either way, the image becomes distorted and VERY noticeable.

Here are actual close-up photos of MsPacman on a proper arcade monitor VS computer monitor.  You can see on the computer monitor the blurry dots, wall edges etc.  Now, would you settle for this?

Summary

CRT Arcade monitors are naturally much harder to find in good working order as they are out of production and thus will require technical knowledge to properly rebuild, test and install.  Also, we will never take an old tube and “rejuvenate” it (which is a process of inducing high current thru the tube to burn off deposits in order to brighten up the output).  This process is only necessary when a CRT is beyond it’s expected life cycle and ends up being a temporary fix.  We always use FRESH tubes in all of our monitors

This is why it is important to find experts such as Castle Classic Arcade for a proper and authentic arcade machine for your home.

So, how do you know when your monitor is ready to be replaced?

The Obvious

Ok, so your monitor wont turn on.  This could be for a number of obvious reasons.  Check these in order:

1. Look for something that may have damaged the monitor.  Many times an overhead marquee light fixture will fall and damage the tube, neckboard or chassis board.  If you don’t see any large parts lying around, you’re probably safe
2. Does the rest of the game work?  Is the overhead marquee on?  Are there any LEDs blinking on the game board?  Do you hear any sound when you insert a credit or press Player 1 Start?
3. Power is going to the monitor.  Check the main fuse.  This is sometimes located on the floor of the arcade game.  One or more fuses will supply power to the rest of the machine.
4. Check the fuse on the monitor.  Every monitor will have a small glass fuse located somewhere on the main chassis board.  Make sure the entire game is unplugged before you start poking around.
5. Make sure the video cable is plugged in and all wires are connected.  (Red, Green, Blue, Black and White

User Adjustable

Ok, so the monitor works, but it doesn’t look right.  There could be some simple adjustments to check first.

Check if your monitor had a wired remote control board.  It is usually about the size of an open matchbook and tethered to the main monitor board by a 24-36″ cable.  You need to understand the controls in order to adjust the monitor.  Most all of the following controls will be located on the wired remote control, however some may be located on the main chassis pcb.

Horiz Hold:  Use this to adjust the picture if it is rolling left / right.  If this does not work, check to see if the white wire is properly connected on the video input.

Vert Hold: Use this to adjust the picture if it is rolling up/down.  If this does not work, check to see if the white wire is properly connected on the video input.

Horiz Size: Use this to adjust the width of the picture

Vert Size: Use this to adjust the height of the picture

Horiz Pos:  Use this to adjust the position of the picture left/right

Vert Pos: Use this to adjust the position of the picture up/down

Bright: Use this to control the overall brightness of the screen.  This is in conjunction with the contrast.   First set the contrast in the middle. Adjust the brightness up all the way until the black image area is no longer black.  You may need to turn down the lights to fine tune this.  Then adjust the contrast up/down so that the colors aren’t too bright and washed out.

Not So Obvious

This is the grey area where a monitor works, but not even close to the way it should.  Unfortunately, many used arcade resellers leave their monitors in this condition and crank up the brightness and contrast to compensate.  Often this results in washed out colors.  Usually RED is the most obvious color of a tired monitor if the color bleeds onto other graphics.  Additionally, many arcade resllers rejuvenate their monitors to fix this issue.  This is a process of introducing high current into the tube to burn off deposits from the guns.  This actually works for a short time.  Sometimes for only hours, sometimes for months.  Either way, long enough to prove to someone that it looks good enough to sell.  This is unscrupulous behavior in my opinion, but you get what you pay for.  The problem is that there is no good way to tell if a monitor has been rejuvenated until it’s too late.   In this event, you’ll need a new monitor.

Repair or Replace

We can take your old monitor and give you credit for a fully rebuilt monitor (given it is the same or similar model and not physically damaged).  All of our monitors come with guaranteed clean CRTs with very low hours.  We rebuild all the typical wear components on all circuit boards and calibrate the monitor so that all color guns aim true.  Call or email us for detail.