February must be pinball time.  Well, I’m thinking it’s pinball restoration and repair month anyway.

In the queue:

• Firepower (the classic solid state game from Williams)
• Star Wars (very fun game, maybe my favorite DE after playing it a little)
• Aladdin’s Castle (nice EM)
• Playball (old old EM, very cool game)
• The Shadow (oh boy, love this game, but it needs some TLC)

Couple random pics for this month:

Oh, and that cool pinball clock – I want one.  Waiting for the designer to sell it.  Perhaps, we can get some stateside and sell them here at CastleClassicArcade.  It’s made from a real Bally plasma pinball display like this 

Here we have an original 1980 Williams Firepower pinball.  This machine was the pinnacle of technology, even for Williams at that time.  This system used the full potential of the System 3-6 MPU board, with extended memory addressing.  Also, this is the first pinball machine to use real time speech synthesis.

Firepower also introduced 3- ball MultiBall, incorporates lane shifting (with the right flipper) and auto-save kickback on the left out lane.

All of these features are now standard on modern games.   This machine is highly regarded in the pinball collector world – and the first pinball machine I ever played when I was growing up.

Restoration

This machine gave us some problems alright.  It was passed among many owners before we plucked it up.  It didn’t work at all and the cabinet was pretty bad.  The backglass was mostly intact, but one of the priors used black sharpie to fill in where the paint was flaking off.  The only redeming quality of this machine was it’s pretty good condition playfield and coin door.  Everything else needed serious help.

This was a custom order, so we had a budget to stick to.  So using our standards for restoration – where the machine retains or gains it’s value in the future, we decided to concentrate heavily on the cabinet and appearance. It’s quite a simple machine (by today’s standards), so we didnt feel that too much  money needed to be spent on the hardware components.  Additionally, we originally felt that the main MPU and driver boards could be re-used as they were in really good condition.

MPU/Driver

Well, after about 2 weeks of fussing with them, we determined that a better and more reliable route was to go with all new MPU/Driver board option.  That way, the owner will never have to worry about reliability and flaky operations that this machine is well known for.  That stretched the budget a little, but in the end, it was totally worth it for peace of mind.

Process

In the end, here’s the final tally on what this machine went through.  We are really happy with the result, and so is the new home owner.

• Rebuilt original coin door, new locks
• New shooter
• New legs and hardware
• Stripped head and cabinet.  Repaired, repainted, stencil and hand paint.  Better than new.
• Repainted backglass and sealed
• Replaced dead displays
• Reflowed all circuit boards, new caps.
• New MPU and Driver combo board (for longevity and reliability)
• LEDs in backglass and game (except pop-bumpers).
• Repaired dead coils, linkages, diodes etc
• Touched up playfield.  Disassmbled, cleaned and waxed many times over
• New star posts with more modern versions
• New lanes with more modern versions
• new plumb-bob assy
• new flippers
• full rubber kit
• firepower target stickers

Pictures

Cabinet

Backglass

Playfield

Video

Credit: thank you www.firepower-pinball.com for all your documentation and tips.  What a great site.

Top of the year to you!  We’re gearing up for a great year full of a variety of video games and larger selection of pinball machines.  They are already selling as fast as we can restore them, so check back often or call us if you are looking for something.  Here’s a snapshot for this month already, but there’s more to come…

Restoration

We’re currently doing a custom restoration on a classic 1980 Williams Firepower.  This machine encompasses all of what Williams was about in the early 80′s.  Very high tech for the time with digital speech and all the Williams unique sounds (later re-used in video games such as Robotron, Defender, Stargate).  This machine is getting a full cabinet restoration, new game boards, and a rebuild of the playfield.  When new playfields become available, if this machine was then upgraded, it would essentially be brand new.  Otherwise it’s in really good shape for being 32 years old.

We’ve done some interesting repairs on a Megatouch Ion game, that required the motherboard to be reworked.  Man, they really cram a lot of stuff in that little cabinet.

New Items Coming This Month

We’re working to get the following machines ready for purchase in the next 30 days – in no particular order

Williams : NBA Fast Break Pinball

Williams: No Fear – Dangerous Sports Pinball

Williams: High Speed 2 – The Getaway Pinball

Williams: Demolition Man (widebody) Pinball

Multipac Deluxe 27″ – we only do a couple of these a year, and this one is pretty awesome.

The Hangout

We welcome the opening of a new arcade called “The Hangout”.

Here you’ll find a good variety of games such as:

• World Cup Soccer Pinball
• Ms.Pacman 60 game Multicade
• Megatouch multigame
• San Francisco Rush 2049 Special Edition sit down racing/simulation
• Shooting arcade
• Scorpion 9000 full-size digital regulation soft-tip darts
• Lounge with widescreen TVs and console games
• Snack bar

Come visit them (address to be updated shortly).   Off South Maple Street (behind Dan’s Discount) in the strip plaza.

Description

This legendary electro-mechanical pinball is the higher end commercial 4-player model. Built in 1976, this is the last production year before all pinball machines went to solid state electronics (first generation of the microprocessor). Only 16,155 were ever made, and not too many exist today in this condition.

Captain Fantastic was a “Tommy” inspired game picturing Elton John as pinball champ Captain Fantastic. David Christensen did the artwork for this Bally game, using a lot of bright reds and blues. Piano keyboards appeared throughout the game, which was one of the first featuring custom-designed bumper caps with drawings of Elton John’s face. The back glass pictured a crowd scene based on the movie Tommy. This game also features mirror lines worked into the back glass art for a dazzling reflective effect. The background crowd features some of the artists friends as well as other historical figures. Greg Kmiec created the playfield design, which has a pleasing, uncluttered arrangement of targets and bumpers, plus four flippers.

This machine also comes with a special bonus: matching framed album cover – Elton John and the Brown Dirt Cowboy (which incidentally also won album of the year in 1976).

Restoration

This machine started with a very low 30,000 plays in it’s lifetime – which shows in it’s all original and untouched playfield.  Hairline cracks exist in the paint (as would any play field of this age), but no wear marks.

• Top side playfield was entirely dismantled, cleaned, polished and waxed.
• All posts were replaced
• All rubbers replaced
• All bulbs replaced.
• Plastics cleaned and are crystal clear (no yellowing).
• Pop bumpers were replaced with custom Elton John tops.
• Drop targets were replaces with custom Elton John units.
• Every single wiper contact was cleaned, filed and re-aligned.  This took a long time but necessary for long term reliability.
• New fuse holders.
• New bridge rectifier for bumpers and thumpers
• New flippers (4)
• New flipper mechanisms (4), linkage, wipers etc
• New bell coil (the other 2 worked fine).
• Works exactly like it is supposed to.  All lights, modes, alternating circuits, score wheels, over-the-top buzzer, lockouts etc work perfect.
• coin door and trim polished.  Slight dent in coin door.
• Replaced legs with chrome models
• cabinet just touched up, but no damage and fade.
• Backbox touched up, slight wear on top that was touched up.
• New locks
• Coin mechs and lockout work

December is historically a hectic month, and this year is no different.

Funland Pizza – Lexington, KY

Castle Classic Arcade is happy to announce the opening of Funland Pizza.  Our friends at Funland Pizza are cooking up some great pizza and have set up a very nice  arcade room with games such as Skeeball, redemption games, driving games and more.   Party rooms available.

Repairs

While we restore our own machines for sale, we also periodically pick up repair work in Lexintgon, KY. Already this month…

• Star Trek – The Next Generation
• Guns n Roses
• Frankenstein
• Twilight Zone
• Medieval Madness

Holiday Orders

We will be working right up to Christmas Day, but all orders for delivery should be placed as soon as possible.  Last delivery orders should be by Dec 19 if you want to make it there by the weekend.

Spam Posts

I didn’t realize that web blogs are also heavily spammed.  We seem to get arbitrary praise replies on our posts – as a tactic to increase in-links to a person’s website.  So as a result, we will be filtering  all non-arcade and n0n-pinball related replies.  We review every post for it’s authenticity and perceived sincerity before allowing it to show on our site.   I apologize in advance if your post does not immediately show up, but we want to make this experience a no-nonsense place for arcade enthusiasts, restorers and buyers.

While there are plenty of websites and forums discussing the do’s and don’ts of EM machines, I figured I would summarize some of the key points here on our site.  Most of these are actually first-hand knowledge.

• Check your fuse blocks.  Most of these are going to be cracked and brittle by now (and barely hold fuses).  If you’re handy with a soldering iron (or just a beginner), this is an easy fix.  Buy some new fuse holders anywhere (Radio Shack, Home Depot) for cheap.
• Resist contact cleaner spray!  I repeat – do not use contact cleaner on any items below the playfield or in the backbox.  I too have ignored the advice of many forums as I thought – hey these look pretty dirty and this stuff works really well.   One, it leaves a residue that still needs to be filed off.  I’ve made a perfectly working (but dirty) EM machine go from working – to completely dead by using a cleaner.  I ended up having to remove each contact and hand cleaning with alcohol and filing.  Also, many contact cleaner sprays are flammable.   We have one report recently of a machine igniting the fumes trapped inside the cabinet.  That must have been scary.
• Use business cards as a low abrasive contact cleaner.  Cut a business card in 3 strips – lengthwise.  Dip them in alcohol (if your contacts are really dirty) and pinch the card between each contact and pull out.  It’s like flossing – and you’ll see a huge dirt/rust trail.  Repeat until clean on each contact.  Your machine will love you and you’ll probably notice a bunch more life and functionality out of your EM.
• Get a contact adjustment tool.   It is a simple item with a slit on each end used to properly bend/adjust contacts.   Contacts should always be straight (not wiggly looking) and aimed by bending at the base.  Adjustment for relays is a little trial and error.  You can also use a dry business card as a guide for normally-open contact gaps.
• Find the schematic for your machine.  Buy it if you have to.  It is imperative in understanding the wiring and diagnosing logic issues.
• Many issues come from poor wiring harness connections.  These long connectors are used in mating the wiring harness between backbox and cabinet, and with the fuse blocks.  These contacts often get loose or the spring metal loses it’s tension.
• Some machines use DC for pop bumpers and slingshots (and some other coils).  If yours are not working, check your fuse and replace the bridge rectifier.
• If you have a coil that is stuck on (buzzing, getting hot) – do not leave your machine running.  Power it off and find which relay or switch that is causing the problem.   IE:  I’ve seen chime relays burn out because of stuck rollover switches and for poorly adjusted  (10′s) &  (100′s) count up relays.

Description

Another excellent example of a Bally pinball machine.  This WPC generation pinball machine is one of the few sports related pinball machines of the era.  At first glance, this machine appears to look easy and simple minded as the apparent goal is to shoot pinballs past the moving goalie.  Play it a couple more times and you’ll find that this machine is much much deeper with a larger purpose in mind – to beat Germany and win the World Cup.

This pinball machine actually has 2 unique playfield toys: a center mounted goal in the far back of the machine with a moving goalie.  The goalie is also a playfield target, so the machine reacts when you strike him, or in some modes, the idea is to hit the moving goalie.

The other toy is the large spinning soccer ball.  This ball will spin in either direction and will deflect pinballs all over the playfield.  Hit it right and you can score a wild shot past the goalie.

This machine integrates awesome video animations on the large 128×32 DMD display that are timed perfectly with the game play.  This machine also has a unique set of multi-ball modes unique to this machine.

World Cup Soccer also has one of the better light shows with use of deep color elements all over.

There are 2 levels of ramps that are smooth and fast.  At one end is a unique ball lock mechanism powered by an electro-magnet.

This machine is a favorite with beginners because of the playful nature, but very fun and rewarding for the advanced pinball enthusiast.

Only 8,743 units produced.

Restoration

This machine went through a deep restoration process.  More so than many of our machines.  Other than the typical full top side teardown and replacement of rubber pieces, this machine has:

• New purple playfield ejection cups.
• All ramps in perfect condition were flame polished for clarity
• New ramp direction linkages
• New goalie target and decals
• New decals on standup targets and spinner
• All annodized gold items were turned chrome: wiremold ramp, skill shot, legs.  We believe this machine looks a ton better in chrome than with the gaudy gold annodized parts.
• New thumper plastics and skill shot diverter
• Cliffy protectors installed on all ejection cups, start holes and goal.
• coin door fully rebuilt
• Full custom LED in playfield, back box, coin door and buttons.
• new start button
• new balls
• new flipper buttons
• all new flippers and full linkage mechanisms
• new locks
• electronics in super original condition.  Display is ultra bright and crisp.
• custom hand rebuilt soccer ball by us.  Hand painted and clear coated.  No wear!!!!   You wont see another like this.

We finally have a new camera that can take proper 1080p videos.  Look for new HD videos and pictures for our products and restoration videos.  We’ll be adding them throughout the week.

This article is going to cover a very common problem with cathode ray tube (CRT) monitors.  This issue is often discussed but rarely properly fixed or addressed in complete form.  We’re going to cover all aspects of this issue and help you diagnose and hopefully fix your monitor purity issues.  Parts of this article may be a little technical, but continue reading as there are some easy fixes included…

What is purity?

CRT monitors are additive color systems, meaning that all colors are created by adding a percentage of primary colors together.   These primary colors are Red, Green and Blue.

White = ( R:100% +  G:100%  + B:100% )

Black  = ( R:0% +  G:0%  + B:0% )

Red = ( R:100% +  G:0%  + B:0% )

Green = ( R:100% +  G:100%  + B:0% )

Blue = ( R:0% +  G:0%  + B:100% )

If your monitor exhibits any one of the following impairments, you have a problem with purity

In the neck of each CRT is a primary color electron gun.  The electrons are directed up/down and left/right by way of a magnetic coil located at the base of the CRT glass.  When an image can be displayed in perfect geometry and color, the CRT is considered to be calibrated  as pure.

The best example of purity is displaying a full screen of each primary color.  If each color can be displayed perfectly square (4×3 on standard CRT) and without color splotches, then the CRT is calibrated correctly (for that region of the world) and that there are no environmental impairments affecting the direction of the internal electron guns.  Purity is adjusted by moving the location of the windings used to redirect the electron gun beams (yoke).  More on this later.

What is Convergence?

Convergence plays hand in hand with purity in creating an image of expected color and with perfect alignment.  We know that each color is controlled by a separate electron gun.  Each gun is located in the neck of the CRT, but not in the same location.  So slight adjustments need to be made so that each gun illuminates the same exact location on the CRT to create a single pixel element.

Here is are a couple examples of very poor convergence.  You can also see the distinct primary elements.

Ok, so now what?

So, how did we get here anyway?  Why would my monitor look like this?

Simple Fix Convergence

First, let’s start with convergence problems.  Convergence is set and locked in place in the factory.  Arcade games typically get man-handled and relocated every couple years to new locations.  Operators are not usually very gentile with these machines and sometimes the glue which holds the yoke in place comes loose.  Sometimes convergence can easily be fixed by re-centering the yoke with the rubber wedges and gluing it back in place.   If that doesnt work, it is possible the  convergence rings were broken off or knocked out of position.  They too are glued in place and if they havent broken off, can be easily be slid back in position.  The manufacturer usually aligned these and marked them with ink or glue so relocating them back should be very simple.  If they have broken off, you will need to look into having this corrected by a professional or replacing the monitor (which is probably your best course of action).

Simple Fix Purity

All monitors have a purity fixer built in.  It’s called a de-gausser.  Most all  monitors have built in de-gaussing circuits that automatically run every time a monitor is turned on.  However, this only happens when a monitor is COLD.  So, if you are seeing this problem, shut off your game and wait about an hour.  When you turn it back on, you should hear a funny twang sound.  That is the degauss circuit attempting to rid the picture tube of unwanted magnetic interference.

Sometimes, when relocating an arcade game, the monitor will pick up stray magnetization.  Try running the automatic degauss circuit a couple times.  If the splotch has not been corrected, you may be one of what we call “the 1%”

Environmental Fix Purity

Sometimes, you have to adjust for environmental conditions that cannot be fixed.  You may have an I-beam in the wall or ceiling that is locally augmenting the Earth’s natural magnetic field.   Sometimes, it is in the ground below you.  Either way, this too can be overcome.

First, relocate the machine to another part of the room OR turn the machine temporarily 90 degrees.  Re-run the automatic degauss circuit a couple of times and see if this condition goes away.

If it works, then you have 2 choices:

1)  Relocate the machine or turn it 90 degrees.

2)  Compensate with magnets

Magnet Fix Purity

Ok, so we don’t love this solution because it is a trial and error solution, but it works – and nobody ever knows to do this.  This method also requires a little dexterity and risk of electric shock.  So, if you are not familiar with electronics or qualified for working with high voltages, please find someone who is.

First, you need some thin flexible magnet material.  Not too strong, typically fridge magnet strength.  A strip of flexible magnet can be purchaed in Home Depot or a craft section used for making picture frames etc.

The idea here is to use the magnets  on the back side of the monitor to compensate for the area that is not pure.  Experiement by moving the magnet along the back side of the glass tube.  The closer to the center (yoke), the more compensation.  Turn and spin the magnet until the blotch goes away and then glue the magnet in place.

You may see other magnets already glued in place by the factory.  Use that as a guide for size and location.

Again – do this with the monitor OFF and wait 15 minutes between each attempt so that high voltage is discharged.  Do all adjustments to the monitor in the position where the game will reside or you’ll be chasing your tail.  

If you have any questions, please comment on this article

Arcade Games

• Place machines at least 4 inches from wall to allow for power cord and air flow.

• Most machines have built in wheels in the back and can be easily moved around on hard surfaces.

• Machines may be transported safely upright or on it’s back (preferred).

• A standard 6 foot bed pickup truck is ideal for transportation.

• Ms. Pacman/Galaga based machines CAN fit in a large SUV, but just barely.  With all the seats down and no cargo.  Larger machines such as the MultiPAC will not.